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However, there is still hope to use a wireless harness.  Since the box I purchased splits the running lights and brake signals, it is taking care of the reading of the lights.  It outputs to a 3 wire system so I can just tap into that if I wanted to.

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For now I will just build this for my Jeep and got a wired connection for the sorento.  I way behind on this and because I don't have proper tools and parts on hand its taking a lot longer than it should!  I tow it with my jeep 90% of the time and only will take sorento on long trips.

These can be had from Harbor Freight and low cost.  I decided that the trailer might as well be "green" and charge its own battery.  Besides its just another thing for me to forget to do.

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These small regulators will be used to power the Arduinos off of the main 12V sources which come from the vehicle as well as the 12V battery in the trailer.  They are also used to read the  vehicle lights.  My plan is to splice into the lines of each light the same way I did before when installing an off the shelf light controller.  The lights will be routed to the 5v regulators which then step down the voltages to 5V for reading via the GPIO pins on the Arduino.  I will need 4 regulators to read the lights.  1 for the brake lights, 1 for the running lights, and 1 each for each turn signal.

Well small wrench in the plans.  I was going to make this for both my towing vehicles but my Kia Sorento has an interesting thing.  The brake lights and running lights are the same. The running lights are just dimmed...

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There are 3 units involved. We have the unit that reads the car's lights, the unit that controls the trailer lights, and the unit that acts as a control panel.  All 3 are connected via the wireless adapters.

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These 2.4ghz transceivers are similar to an I2C connection and a serial connection combined.  Each one has an ID and you can broadcast information. I will have a small protocol in place for error correction as well as some minor tamper proofing.  I don't want a rogue 2.4ghz signal to be able to mess with my lights.  I will be using a command set that requires a sequence of bytes in order to validate commands.

I may choose to get some LED based trailer lights, but I am going to stick with the stock trailer lights for now until I have a working project.

So how the heck would I read that?  Looks like I would need a ADC?  I suppose it puts out 6V and 12V or something to that effect...  Maybe a diode that saturates at 12V?

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I am not going to get it done before my trip so I am going old fashioned for now.  However I still need the harness for my short trips so I will be back on this very soon.

I am going do this small side project as a way to take a break from my main project.  For a basic introduction please see my original blog post at http://www.element14.com/community/people/screamingtiger/blog/2015/04/20/a-small-project-idea--wireless-trailer-lighting-control

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I leave Sunday and given its Wed I need to attend to other matters of the trip.  Stay tuned and thanks to everyone for helping me!

The car has running lights, brake lights, and turn signals all on separate channels.  However the trailer lights only have 2 channels as the running lights also function as turn signals. My initial analysis was incorrect that the running lights also function as brake lights.

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This will function as the main control panel with a simple interface.  The Pi attaches easily to the LCD which is why I chose this route.  Its way overkill but I feel it will be useful for other projects that also need a remote or control panel.  The control panel will allow monitoring as well as manual control of the lights for testing.

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This same switch will also turn off the cruise control, and is very likely to be a ground into the engine management system.

I got the system working though the connection seems worse using the plug in boards.  Let me get everything out of my office and mounted in the boxes and I'll make a video.

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If anyone has concerns about my project, please post them in that thread.  I have changed the design slightly after doing  some research and testing.  I am also going to have a control panel in the car with me so I can monitor things as well as manually test the lights.

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These will be used for the units that read the lights and control the trailer lights.  I have some of these on hand is why I went with them and the small footprint will allow me to tuck it away nicely.

The stock lights on my trailer pull 2A for the brakes lights per side, and 500 mA per side for the running lights.  Originally I was going to use a mosfet but I see no reason with this high of current.  The brake lights will be turned on at the same time so the relay will see 4A.  However the running lights will be on separate channels as they also function as blinkers.  The 4th channel I may use to turn on internal lights in the trailer remotely.